Devil Worshippers

An Australian, a Swiss, and an American drive into the wilderness, looking for Devils…

it sounds like the beginning of a cheesy joke. Last week I was given the opportunity to accompany a PhD student on his fieldwork in Freycinet National Park, to trap and study Tasmanian Devils. He is working on monitoring the local population of Devils to measure the response to Devil Facial Tumor Disease (DFTD), a very interesting but devastating contagious cancer. The Devils transfer the tumor cells to their compatriates when they bite each other around the face, usually during mating season. Over time, the tumors grow so big that the devils can’t eat, or see, eventually killing them. Throughout Tasmania, the Devil population has declined ~85%, but it seems that the remaining Devils may be slowly evolving and developing resistance to the disease. Here’s hoping.

Felicia the Devil

Our three-person team was composed of me, Sebastien (the PhD student, originally from Switzerland), and Mikaela (an undergrad in Ecology from Melbourne). We set 38 traps (baited with meat) in and around the National Park, and spent each morning bouncing and sliding around backroads and fire tracks in our sturdy 4WD “ute” (utility vehicle, aka a pickup truck) checking each one. If we pulled up to a trap and saw that it was closed, the excitement rose – will there be a Devil inside? A Quoll? Often the trap was empty, and sometimes the meat was stolen – they outsmarted us once again. But many times Sebastien would peek inside to find a Tasmanian Devil or a Spotted Tail Quoll, the other prominent marsupial carnivore living in the area.

Checking the trap

We set up our work station: data sheet, calipers for measuring, swabs for microbiology samples, needles and biopsy punches for blood and tissue sample collection, clippers for hair and whisker samples, microchip reader, etc. and set to work. The animal was gently transferred to a heshen (burlap) sack, and scanned for a microchip, weighed, and then gently handled by Sebastien until either the back of its head, or its tail, or its side – whatever part we needed to work with – was exposed, all the while keeping it secure and with eyes covered. A few of the animals were jumpy, or struggled, but most of them stayed remarkably calm. Mikaela and I took turns scribing and assisting with sample collection, and rest assured it was thrilling to be so close to these rare and elusive animals. We were able to look in their mouths, examine their adorable but tough little feet, and a few times get a glimpse at some tiny joeys in the mother’s pouch!

Dumping a devil from the trap into the bag

Sampling

Taking a lip biopsy

Although the main purpose of the research is to monitor the Devils, I was just as excited to see the Quolls. I had never heard of a Quoll before arriving in Tasmania, but they are now one of my favorites! They are so beautiful and graceful, covered in white spots with a tail longer than their body, and an adorable glistening pink nose.

   

After taking all of our data, we unpacked the little Devils and watched them run into the bush. While I’m sure that it is a somewhat to very stressful experience for the animals, for most it probably is not too traumatizing because we had many return visitors. Back for a snack and a massage!

What a sad face!

Adios!

In the afternoons when we finished in enough time, we explored the area, going on several hikes. Freycinet National Park is one of the most visited destinations in Tasmania, so I felt pretty lucky. We saw Yellow-tailed Black Cockatoos, Wedge-tailed Eagles and White-bellied sea eagles, Black Swans, Wallabies, Kukaburras, a Southern Right Whale, Dolphins, and Australian Fur Seals. Wineglass Bay is one of the main attractions in the park, and the view certainly is spectacular, especially from the top of Mt. Amos, despite the steep and treacherous hike to get there.

Friendly beaches

Since we were a group of diverse origins, we also enjoyed many conversations on a wide variety of topics, comparing U.S., Australian, and Swiss/French ways and viewpoints, politics, and culture. Did you know that Switzerland does not have a president or prime minister, but instead has seven ministers from different political parties that all have to reach consensus on their decisions? Or that Australia is currently counting every vote in one of (if not) the closest election in history?

Overall it was a very enjoyable, enlightening experience.

Wineglass bay from Mt. Amos